The Skeleton Key to Unlock Bourbon's Darkest Secret

Imagine a heist so bold, so meticulously planned, that it left everyone stunned, not just by the crime but by the sheer audacity of it.  A tale of greed deception, and betrayal that shook an entire industry to its core.  The story you're about to hear dives deep into a legend you may have never heard of - a man whose actions sent shockwaves through a world steeped in tradition.  What was stolen wasn't just a prized possession; it was a symbol of heritage, and its loss forever changed the landscape.  Join me as we uncover the truth behind this mysterious heist, learn who the man responsible for one of the most unforgettable thefts in bourbon history is, and the two bourbons that play a role in telling the story. 

Thank you for listening to Bourbon: Legends from the Trail, where history meets flavor and every bottle has a story to tell. Cheers to the stores and legends behind the Spirit! Please leave a rating and review as it will help me plan future episodes.

Chapters

• 0:00 Intro
• 4:03 The Mysterious John Fitzgerald
• 9:27 Fitzgerald's True Indentity
• 15:18 Stitzel Weller Buys a Legend
• 19:09 The Skeleton Key Revealed
• 21:33 The Legend Who Bought The Brand

Transcript

Throughout history, certain heists have captivated the world with their audacity, mystery, and sheer scale. Such as the 1971 tale of D.B. Cooper that stands as one of the most mysterious. Cooper hijacked a plane, extorted $200,000 when the plane briefly touched down in Seattle, and then he vanished without a trace after parachuting into the unknown. Leaving behind only questions and legends. To this day, no one knows the fate of DB Cooper or the $200,000.

In Canada, the Great Maple Syrup Heist of 2011 stunned the nation, as thieves made off with almost 3,000 tons—an estimated 13.7 million dollars’ worth of liquid gold. It was a crime so quintessentially Canadian, it almost seemed unbelievable.

Even Kentucky has had its share of great heists. During 2013, the bourbon world was shaken by the infamous theft of Pappy Van Winkle Bourbon from the Buffalo Trace distillery. This heist targeted some of the most prized and sought-after whiskey in existence—a legend we’ll explore in a future episode. This heist left a deep scar in a state where bourbon is more than just a drink; it’s a heritage. 

These legendary heists, each unique in their own right, share a common thread of daring ambition.  The lasting impact they left on history and culture is as unforgettable as the stolen goods themselves.

As infamous as these heists are, the subject of today’s legend is just as equally audacious. It was orchestrated by a man most of you have never heard of: John Fitzgerald, a name that has become synonymous with betrayal in the world of bourbon. So much mystery surrounds his name that it has been almost impossible to decide what is truth and what is lore. His name has been associated with being a master distiller, a distillery owner, and even a port authority captain on the Ohio River. Well today, this mystery will come to an end. The heist he pulled off not only shattered a well respected distillery owner’s trust, but sent shockwaves through an industry steeped in tradition. What unfolds is a tale of greed, deception, and a loss so profound it forever changed the course of bourbon history.

Now it’s time to grab your favorite bottle, then pop the cork, pour yourself a generous glass and settle into your favorite spot. 

Welcome to “Bourbon: Legends from the Trail,” where history meets flavor, and every bottle has a story to tell.

Our story begins at the renowned Stitzel-Weller Distillery which sits in Louisville’s South End, and a cornerstone of Kentucky bourbon history. This distillery was established in 1935 by a group of bourbon legends. The distillery quickly became known for producing some of the finest wheated bourbons in the world. Stitzel-Weller’s use of wheat instead of rye in the mash bill resulted in a smoother, softer flavor profile, setting their bourbons apart. During its heyday, Stitzel Weller was known for its flagship brand, Old Fitzgerald. It was the number one selling bourbon in America at the time. How this label came to Stitzel-Weller is a tale as twisted as the true identity of John Fitzgerald. What we do know for sure is that after Prohibition, the legendary owner of Stitzel-Weller acquired the brand, then changed the mash bill from a rye-based bourbon to a wheated one, continuing a legacy of crafting bourbons that were rich, complex, and highly sought after.

Now, you may be wondering why there was so much confusion around this man, John Fitzgerald, and how exactly he fits into the Stitzel-Weller story. 

The main reason for the confusion is that several legends about John Fitzgerald. Many created even before this Fitzgerald name arrived at Stitzel Weller. One legend claims that around 1870, an Irishman named John E. Fitzgerald built a distillery himself on the banks of the Kentucky River in Frankfort and made a bourbon so unique that it was only sold to rail lines, steamships, and private clubs. 

Well imagine in today’s crazy bourbon obsessed world, if a bourbon was released that was so unique and so rare that it was only sold in this manner, people would go crazy to get their hands on a bottle. Well, when people heard about this exclusive bourbon called Old Fitzgerald, they couldn’t wait to get their hands on that bottle, causing the brand and its reputation to reach unbelievable heights.

Another account that added to the confusion, traced back to a man named Solomon Herbst, a wholesale wine and liquor dealer in Milwaukee. Herbst was from Prussia and didn’t think that liquor from a Prussian would sell well, so he invented a story that an Irish master distiller, named—yes, you guessed it—John E. Fitzgerald, was responsible for creating the bourbon. Solomon claimed that when he bought the Old Judge Distillery outside Frankfort, KY, from this Irish distiller, that along with the distillery came the recipe for this unique Old Fitzgerald bourbon. The story suggests that only a very few barrels were made, and so the reputation of this fine bourbon heightened demand. Mr. Herbst went on to claim that once Fitzgerald had sold the distillery to him, he then moved to Hammond, Indiana to run another distillery.  However, no records of this can be found.

One last legend claimed that Fitzgerald was an employee working for that legendary owner of Stitzel Weller, and that he was caught stealing whiskey from him.  You see, during this time period, which was in the midst of Prohibition, Stitzel-Weller was more than just a distillery; it was a symbol of quality and tradition. And Stitzel Weller’s legendary owner had bargained to obtain one of the 6 licenses granted to allow distilleries to continue to sell whiskey, albeit medicinally. Now, combining the ability to sell whiskey during Prohibition medicinally, with Stitzel-Weller’s reputation for producing bourbon that many called “liquid gold,” the owner became fearful and increased the security around the rickhouses. Only a select few individuals had access to all the buildings at Stitzel Weller, and according to this legend, Fitzgerald bought one of the keys from an employee who was quitting the distillery. This key allowed him access to Stitzel Weller’s incredible inventory.  

Well, let’s move away from all these legends and mysteries and actually clarify what the true story is.   And in your mind you might be asking, how do we know THIS is the actual story? Well, the answer to that came to us in 1999. In an account given in her book But Always Fine Bourbon,  which was a biography of her family’s history, Sally Campbell, the granddaughter of the Stitzel-Weller Distillery’s legendary owner, clarified who the real John Fitzgerald was, and his actual job at the distillery.

In the book, she states that a Spirits publisher at the behest of Louisville’s Courier Journal newspaper had contacted a man named Claude Bixler who grew up on the Old Judge distilleries grounds and whose father was the manager and master distiller there until Prohibition.  Bixler stated that he knew Solomon Herbst very well and had heard him repeat the following account many times. 

Fitzgerald’s role at the Old Judge distillery was that of a security guard and he had one crucial advantage over all the other employees: he held the keys to all the buildings around the distillery, including the rickhouses. These keys granted him access to some of the finest bourbon barrels—a privilege he allegedly abused in a rather unique way. Mr. Herbst had stated that Fitzgerald possessed an extraordinary palate and an unerring ability to identify the best barrels of bourbon.  
Under the cover of darkness, when the master distiller and all other employees had gone home for the night, he would use his ring of keys to sneak back into the distillery and into the rickhouses, where he would sample the contents of select barrels. But Fitzgerald wasn’t just tasting the whiskey—he was stealing it. He would take the bung out of the barrels, siphon off portions of the choicest bourbon with a Whiskey Thief, which is a long copper tube used by the distiller to test bourbon barrels for flavor profiles, and then he would leave the rest of the bourbon untouched, and take the stolen bourbon home for his family and friends in mason jars. This act of theft went unnoticed for years, partly due to the minimal volume of whiskey he took from each barrel and his careful choice of the best, most robust barrels, which were less likely to show small losses. The only hint anyone had was the Whiskey Thief itself, which employees kept finding on the fifth floor of various rickhouses around the property. Word soon spread that the rickhouses must be haunted, and that the ghosts were sampling the bourbon themselves.

However, when the truth about John Fitzgerald’s thefts came to light, it’s said that the Herbst was both outraged—as he publicly condemned the thefts—and secretly  impressed, by privately acknowledging that Fitzgerald had an eye and a taste for quality that matched even the most seasoned distillers, as he consistently chose the finest barrels from which to steal.

Regardless, once Fitzgerald was caught, Herbst began identifying high quality bourbon barrels with Fitzgerald’s moniker (saying things like, this is good enough to be a Fitzgerald Barrel) As a result, it then evolved into a brand name for high quality Bourbon. Fitzgerald’s actions became industry lore -  a tale of a man who indulged in the forbidden fruit of the bourbon world. The discovery not only shocked the distillery and the broader bourbon community, but it also added a layer of mystique to the Old Fitzgerald brand, making the story of its namesake an indelible part of bourbon history.

And despite the theft—or perhaps because of it—Old Fitzgerald’s reputation grew to even greater heights. The story became a part of the brand’s lore, adding a layer of intrigue that appealed to bourbon enthusiasts everywhere. The association with high-quality, pilfered whiskey made Old Fitzgerald a topic of fascination and conversation, further cementing its place in bourbon history. 

So you may be wondering, why would this Bourbon Legend and owner of Stitzel Weller, decide to buy the Old Fitzgerald brand and how exactly did he obtain it?

Well first the why….. When there is a whiskey with as much mystery and intrigue around it as this Old Fitzgerald brand, it sells itself.  And according to Norman Hayden, an employee who worked at Stitzel Weller for over 46 years, Mr. Herbst had been bringing some barrels to Stitzel Weller during Prohibition for them to sell medicinally as the Old Judge Distillery that he owned did not have a license to sell.  The legendary owner then came up with an idea that he would like to buy the label as the brand, he believed, had enormous potential.  

Secondly the how…. Norman had heard the Bourbon Legend on numerous occasions tell other people how he obtained the label. He said the owner had heard the rumblings of Prohibition coming to an end in the not too distant future, and knew that having the Old Fitzgerald brand at Stitzel Weller would be highly advantageous.  The owner was telling people that Mr. Herbst, was looking for ways to obtain some money as his distillery did not have a medicinal license, and had told the bourbon legend, “I sure would like to sell you this Old Fitzgerald label”.  When asked to name the price, Mr. Herbst said $25,000 (which was close to $500,000 in today’s money).  SW’s owner said no thanks. At a second meeting of the two, Mr. Herbst again said that he wanted to sell the brand to him.  And again, the owner said how much?  Mr. Herbst said the price is still $25,000.  At that point, this bourbon legend leaned forward and looked right into Solomon’s eyes and said, “Solomon, I will tell you what, I will give you $10,000 today for that label”, and before the word label could completely come out of his mouth, Mr. Herbst said “SOLD”.

So, does the story end there? Not exactly.

The legend of John Fitzgerald and his illicit activities did not fade away. Instead, it had been whispered about for decades.  Then, it was launched back into the mainstream as it became the cornerstone of a brand identity for a certain new bourbon launched by the Heaven Hill Distillery in 2012. You see Heaven Hill had purchased Stitzel Weller’s flagship brand Old Fitzgerald when Stitzel Weller closed their doors. Deciding to embrace this legend, Heaven Hill’s bourbon that was released in 2012 celebrates the supposed thief with a brand narrative that highlights Fitzgerald’s “discerning palate” and his penchant for the finest barrels. I would wager that many of you listening, have probably even tasted this bourbon and have no idea the legend behind that taste.

For the many of you who don’t know the story of John Fitzgerald and his legendary heist, here’s what you’ve been waiting for: Heaven Hill’s new release in 2012 was created as a wheated bourbon and today you can find it on almost any shelf. Here is a hint, the name of the brand is another word for “stealing.” And if you need another, it starts with an “L”……. Hopefully, you’ve figured it out, but if not, the name of that bourbon is Larceny. Have you ever seen a bottle of Larceny? If you have, you know what is on the front label of the bottle, if you have not seen the bottle, well on the front label it has an old skeleton keyhole, similar to the locks on the buildings at Stitzel-Weller.

Now many times, when I am telling this story on the trail, most people recognize the brand and know there’s a keyhole on the label. Many have even tried the bourbon. However, when I ask if they’ve ever looked through the keyhole—and through that wonderful golden brown bourbon to the label on the back—most have not. In fact, they often get a confused look on their face. If you have seen the bottle, have you looked through that keyhole? Well, the next time you see a bottle, take a moment to peer through that keyhole on the front. What you’ll see on the back label is a skeleton key. So that bottle of Larceny tells the INCREDIBLE legend of the time when John Fitzgerald was committing a larceny that ended up sending shockwaves through the bourbon world. It serves as a reminder that, even in the highly regulated world of bourbon production, there’s always room for a little mystery and myth. 

As we reach the conclusion of the story, one question looms large: What happened when Fitzgerald was caught? The answer, as we mentioned earlier, is shrouded in mystery. Some accounts suggest that he was discovered while still employed and was quietly dismissed, with the distillery preferring to avoid a public scandal. Others imply that he was caught and legal action was taken, though records of such proceedings are either nonexistent or lost to time. What is generally agreed upon is that Fitzgerald’s thefts were eventually discovered, as he would probably have been bragging to others about his illicit activities. The revelation was a scandal in the bourbon world, not just because of the theft, but also because of the breach of trust it represented.

What is certain, however, is that the legend of Fitzgerald only grew after the incident. He’s remembered not as a villain, but as a figure of intrigue and mystery. His name continues to be associated with some of the finest bourbon ever produced—a testament to the complexity and allure of his legend. The tale of the bourbon thief with an exceptional palate has become an enduring part of bourbon lore and has been immortalized with the brands Old Fitzgerald, and now Larceny Bourbon.

But before we close the legend, there’s one more thing I need to clarify. For most of today’s legend, I’ve kept the name of the Stitzel Weller distillery’s owner a secret, only mentioning that he was, and still is, a bourbon legend. To reveal the identity of the man behind the acquisition of the Old Fitzgerald brand, let’s look back briefly to Sally Campbell, the owner’s granddaughter, who had written the book But Always Fine Bourbon about her family and that had finally cleared up the mystery of who John Fitzgerald actually was. You see, Sally’s married name is Campbell, but her maiden name…well her maiden name was Van Winkle. Yes, that Van Winkle. Her grandfather, the owner of Stitzel-Weller, and the man responsible for making that shrewd business deal to obtain the Old Fitzgerald brand, was none other than Julian Van Winkle—you know, the man that most people call… Pappy.

Well, if you enjoyed today's episode, don't forget to hit that subscribe or follow button if you have not already. 

Thanks for joining me on this flavorful journey through time and taste....Cheers to the stories behind the spirit.

I am your host, writer, and producer...Travis Hounshell and THIS is Bourbon: Legends from the Trail.

Also you can help the show grow by sharing it with friends and leaving a rating or review on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen. Visit legendsfromthetrail.buzzsprout.com and find us on instagram and Facebook at legendsfromthetrail

1. https://whiskyauctioneer.com/news/american-icons/american-icons-legendary-ah-hirsch-reserve
2. https://www.bourbonbanter.com/gordy-hue-and-the-greatest-bourbon-story-youve-never-heard/
3. But Always Fine Bourbon: Pappy Van Winkle and The Story of Old Fitzgerald by Sally Campbell
4. Music provided by Pixabay.com